Improvement in looms for weaving corsets



UNYIED STA-TES `WIM-.IAM BREITENSTEIN, oir-NEW YORK, N. Y., AssIGNon" To rI-sqHEL a co., or sAME BLAUE.

tn MBaovl-:MENT'IN Loomsl Fos WEAVING GoesE-rs..

1 Specification forming part of Letters Patent No.4 $7,556, dated January 27, 1 663.

.'lb all whom it may .conce-rn.'

Be it Iknown that 4I,.'WILLIA1\[ BREITEN- lSTEIN, of the city, county, and State ot' New York, have invented a' new .and useful im? provement in the weaving ot' corsets, or other articles of irregular form, and in the' looms for weaving,` the same; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full and exact description thereof, reference beinghad to the annexed drawings, making part of this specification,

in which` Figure 1 is a front elevation of the loom, with `parts of the frame broken oil' for the purpose ot' show ing the regulator and its axis.;

Fig. 2, a side elevation of the loom; Fig. 3, a-

-cross section of the same. Fig. 4- represents the usual. method of weaving corsets or other irregular-shaped fabrics. Fig. 5- shows the cross-section and perspective of a' ratchetf wheel and the axis of the regulator with the doublepawl'underneath '-the same and in its proper position.' 5

Theentire length 'of the axis L is covered with similar ratchet-wheels, each of 'which is acted on by similar pawls. r

' The samev letters mark the same partsin a-ll the fabric ,was drawn and adjustedA byjhand on a row of pins\parallel with the cloth-cylinder until itwa-s brought again in line with said row of pins. By lthese operations the concave and convex Vshapesof the cloth as required ,for corsets' were formed, but the same were lattended with delays and diiiculties, as the weaving had to be interrupted in order to perform the said 'operations l ,The usualv manner of weaving irregular shaped cloth, such as corsets, is represented inhig. 4.

c d represent :the warp-threads. a e. ce', Snc., represent the filling-threads. Aof represent arowof pinson a bar or rod parallel with the clo'tlifcylin'der. I It will be seen that, in order to obtain the irregular shape of cloth, thelling, insteadof beingv interlaced with all theI threads of. the warp, interlaces only with apart-of thesame, nextl with a smaller part thereof,` next with a lstill smaller num bergand so forth, until the form of thewoven cloth isbouu'ded by aline,

al a a a, oblique to the line c f. '-In" the, handlooms this operation is atcomplished by tak' "ing out and putting in the shuttle at a wa, in-

stead of throwing it throughthe whole nunn. ber of warp-threads.. In the Jacquard looms the same operation is accomplished by the machinlit'tingr up the numberof warp-threzuls reqniredand by carrying the shuttle through that number only. f In both instances the'filling' has to be tightened by hand, and jin both instances the cloth has first tobe removed I from its fastening-pins at c f, and then t'o ho fastened .on the pins in sucha manner that the linea c should come ou the line c s, and be fastened to the row of pins thereon.

are produced which are required for corsets.-

The object of my invention is to weave corsets or other irregularly-shaped articles or.,l l

fabrics regularly and without any interruptions, much in the same manner as the. usual cloth is woven.` For this purpose Ihave con struted'a Jacquard power-l0om with a pecu# liar divided and self-adj usting take-up orreg ulator, and a peculiar filling-tighteneror thread catcher, by means of which the adjustments on the cloth-cylinder and the formation of the Waves in the fabric vare performed gradually and regularly, as required during the` process of weaving by the said' power-loom.

To enable those skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I will proceed to de- Y scribe its construction and operation.

A represents thcupper part of the frame, A' .the columns supporting the same, and A2,

A3, and A4 represent the lower parts of the frame.

Cl G represent thereed'frame or lay; D the reed; E, the heddles; F, the spools containing" the warp-threads; H H, the shuttles; J J, the. warp-threads.

My regulator for stretehln'gthecloth gradually during the weaving and by the action of.'l the loom is constructed in the followingmanner: The axle L contains anuamberof ratchet- Inthis." manner the cloth receives aconeave or-convex l shape, and thereby those Waves in the cloth wheels, K K K, each one of which contains a spring, n, on the inside, grasping the axle L, and a screw, m, is inserted through each wheel K and acts on the spring u for the purpose o f tightenin gorlooseni n g the said spring. When the reed-frame strikes the lever N, (that being done always after every throw ot' the shuttle,) the system of levers N N N2 N3 acts upon the ratchet P, which, in its turn, acts upon the ratchet-wheel M, and this, being immovably tixed to theaxis L, will cause the. said axis L to partially revolve all the ratchet-wheels K, arid by the friction acting through the spring n these wheels tend to revolve equally in the same direction, and thus, by the means of the pins r r projecting therefrom, tota kc up all the width ofthecloth equally; but this equal action does not follow. lhc resistance ofthe springs or weights S on the several warp-threads is greater than the friction of n upon the shaft L. When the reed strikes the cloth of the last tlneadotl the filling a c, it tendsto shove the cloth to the width ofa e back on the regulator,

whereby those ratchet-wheels K of the regulaor which coincide witlnor are opposite to a e are aided to turn with the shaft L by the p wer ofthe stroke, and revolve while all the o her wheels K remain stationary. Iawls K K are so mounted as to apply to the under side of each wheel K and to -pi'event any reverse motion. If it be supposed that ae formed the last line of the filling, those ratchet'- Wheels only of the regulator corresponding with that line would be acted upon, and, thus aided, the cloth7 to the width of a. e3, would be moved forward on the regulator', and thus the oblique line a ci a a a., which, in the usual looms, has to be drawn forward at intervals by hand to the line cf ot' the pins, is here drawn forward to that line by the regulator at every stroke ot the lay. Thus, on the usual loom, it' the weaving had reached to the line a e, the operation of weaving would have to be stopped entirely, and the weaver would be obliged to pull the cloth forward by hand until the points u a ct a a were brought back to and fastened on the line of pins cf, by which said operation the hollow or wave in the cloth is formed, whereas in my loom the line a e3 is drawn forwardimmediatelyaiterbeing formed. Assoon as the next line, a e2, is formed it is again moved forward, and so on, While the other edge ofthe cloth is not moved. In this man ner I effect the moving of that part of the cloth (which otherwise would have to be performed by hand) by the machine during the process of weaving.

O is a spring connected with the levers N N', Src., which tends to urge them in a directioa toward the lay.

Q is a spring which supports ajointed bar, through which the lay G acts upon and gives motion to the said sytem of levers.

R R, Fig. 3, are the thread-catchers.

S S represent springs or weights to produce the proper strain on the warp-threads.

T T are the springs by which the said weights or .strings are connected with the spools of the warp. so as to act by friction thereon in the usual manner.

fr r r are pointed pins on the ratchet-wheels of the regulator. There are several pins, r r,- a-nd one spring aand screwm in each wheel K.

g is the block in which the axle h for the double lratchet K is mounted. This double ratchet is composed of'two similar but inde pendent levers, of, which t t are respectively the heavier or weighted arms, which, by their greater weight, keep the same in their proper position, so that while one of the fangs, u,

keeps one tooth ot' the wheel, the other fang,

u', stands on the halfot the next tooth. At each revolution ofthe main shaft I vof my looml the shuttle ll flies quite across the entire fabrie and back again, even though the operation ot' the Jacquard has been such as to induce the useful retention of the filling-yarn in only the small portion a e, or the still smaller portion, a e. Under'such circumstances itis obvious the filling-yarn is` lia-ble. to Vlie in or about the fabric in a lslaclrcondition; but this evil is prevented by the timely operation ofthe filling stretcher before alluded to. The lillingstretcher is represented by the rocking shaft B and bent lever R. The shaft B is mounted inthe hatten C Gr and is free to turn 4 thereon, so as to stand near each'edge of the cloth, each4 being a Wire of sufficient rigidity to pull up and retain the slack of the fillingyarn, when any exists, and to pull more out from the shuttle if necessary. At every forward motion of the hatten C G the short; arm t' is moved against or past a movable stop, W, which latter is mounted n the framing of the loom, and is operated by theV Jacquard mechanism, so' that it may be' effective or not, as desired. A spring (not represented) tends to hold the levers R up close to the hatten C G, in the position indicated by the dark lines in Fig. A3; but when the lever i is brought into contact with the stop W the shaft B is partially rotated, so as to throw the levers R forward into the position shown by the red lines, 'and the upper ends of R are adapted to catch the filling-yarn and pull it so as to tighten it. There benga lever, R', at each ed ge ofthe cloth, it follows' that the-yarn is certain to be caught and stretched, whether the shuttle traverses across from right to left or from left to right. The quantity of slack to be taken up in eachl instance obviously depends on the breadth of the cloth in whicliiit is not retained. Th-us there will be more slack after the throw which produced a e than after the throw which produced a e3. I can, it'necessary, employ a multiplex stop instead of the single one represented at W, or can operate a single one, so as to induce various degrees or extents of motion in the levers R, according to the quantity of slack to be taken up--a matter easy of accomplishment from this specification byany one familiar with Jacquard mechanism, but I do not find it necessary. I preferto use a single and simple stop, as represented, causing the levers R to turn far enough to take up the utmost slack that can' ever be formed, and when less slack is formed the surplus motion of the lever It will always be provided for by the-,ready discharge of more yarn from the shuttle, which surplus yarn will be disposed of in the ordinary Way on the return of the shuttle-that is to say, it' the slack of the filling-yarn is all taken up before the lever R .'has completed its motion, then. the further motion of the lever R will not break the lillinglyarn, but will simply pnllmore of it out from the shuttle, and on the return of th'e shuttle` l described, if made of suicient width and pro.

vided with suitable shuttles, &c., are capable of weaving two or more pieces of cloth on one loom, .v\'hieh is also an advantage the existing cloth-looms are not capable of. 'Having now fully described .my invention, f fwhat [claim as new, and desire tol secure by ...Letters Patent, is-

? f1. The employment, in looms, of a take up mechanism, which takes up portions of the breadth o`f the cloth independently ofthe other portions of the breadth, in the manner sub-- stantially as herein specified.

2. Regulating or determining the action of the several Vparts of such irregular take-up by the di'ering force ot' the impact of the lay on the different parts of the breadth o f the cloth, in the manner substantially as herein set forth.

3. The employment, in a loom, of a multiple roller, substantially as herein described and 1 represen ted by K K L, for the purpose set forth.

4. lmpartin g a yielding force to the several sections of such roller, so as to maintain a con. stant or nearly constant tension on all parts -of the breadth of the cloth during theweaving y -of corsets and the like irregular articles, substantially as specified.

5. The combination of suitable pawls, K, with the ratchetfwheels K and shaft L, and

tirictional connection n, or `their respective equivalents, for the purpose herein set forth. 6. The employment, in looms for weaving corsets and other irregular cloth, ofthe fillingstretcher, operating substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

7. Controlling the operation of the fillingstretcher B R by the movement of the stop W or its equivalent, substantially as and for'th purpose herein set forth. p WILLIAM ,BREITENSTEIN Witnesses:

GHS. WEHLE, A. WEHLE.y 

